PADDLING TO LA BOCA

Today, as the instructors catch glimpses of the ocean on our drive to Playa Encuentro, Luciano says, “The ocean is going to teach you some things today.” Yikes. The storm coming in is bringing some choppy waves, choppier than yesterday. Being our last day, Luciano graduates us again: Smaller hard top “real” surfboards! We head into the ocean and fight against the waves to paddle out. Let’s just say the “channel” that we learned about in surf theory—the deeper water where waves aren’t breaking, leaving you a good place to paddle out—does not exist on Encuentro Beach, especially today. I learned about channels surfing in Hawaii, and they mentioned paddling out in the channel several times this week. Finally, at lunch with Sebastian yesterday, I called their bluff. There is no real channel at Playa Encuentro. 

Despite the very choppy water, I am having a really good day, standing up on lots of waves and honestly just having so much fun. I like this new board and maybe something clicked today. Jeffrey, one of the surf instructors, tells me I know which board to buy now (7'6 x 21 1/2" x 2 7/8" - although Jeffrey suggests 7'4). “Yes, for all my surfing in the landlocked state of Colorado,” I respond. It starts raining on us, and it is amazing. Jeffrey says surfing in the rain is one of his favorite things, and I can see why. For whatever reason, it is so much fun. I am having the best time, even with plenty of waves to the face. 

Our two hours up, we make our way back to the beach, hair crazy and all smiles. There is no drying off with all the rain, so we just pile into the taxi, putting towels on the seats. We arrive at Swell, and instead of running for cover from the rain, we stand in it and then jump in the pool, which is surprisingly warm. It is a magical morning; so much fun and so much joy—our little Swell community. 

After enjoying another yummy breakfast, we head back to the beach. On a high from the morning, I join the second surf session for the first time. The instructors head back to “the lineup”—all the way back where the waves are breaking—while Parker and I try to hold our own in the white water closer to shore. I don’t have the success of the first session and mostly just get pulled down the beach while trying to paddle out, but I do stand up in a couple, at least briefly before falling back in. Impressively, Mom watches from the beach in her rain jacket as the rain falls, sometimes a drizzle and sometimes quite a bit more than a drizzle.

Back at Swell, I go for a quick snack and get ready for the afternoon activity: Paddle boarding! It’s our last day; we have to get it all in, rain or shine. Most the group was going to paddle board, but the rain deters everyone except Parker and I. Niki, who has been to Swell previously, recommended asking Luciano to take us to the river for paddle boarding; she went last time she was here and had a great time. So, we arranged that with him a few days ago, and now we are in the car with Luciano driving to the river. On the way, I ask him some questions to learn a little more about his story.

We arrive at Rugama Tours, which a sign indicates is an ecological park. Luciano tells us it is a hotel and wedding venue. It looks somewhat deserted at the moment, but I can imagine it being quite beautiful. Luciano puts some boards in the water, gives us paddles, and off we go. This is a small river off the main river. We paddle by a giant house and through some pretty scenery. Luciano asks Parker about what he does, and next thing I know, I hear I giant splash. Luciano is in the river: “I like hearing about your life but I have to focus.” He didn’t see a branch in the water and caught his board. A small boat passes us, on the way to a restaurant at the end of the river, where it meets the ocean. During the paddle, Luciano asks what I do, to which I respond that I am a teacher. The ages are not computing for him, and I let him know I am 24. “Don’t get mad at me if I tell you how old I thought you were…16 or 17,” Luciano admits. I’m not sure what about me radiates teenager but clearly something does. 

We merge with the larger river—Rio Yasica—and paddle to La Boca, where the river meets the ocean. We pull our boards to shore, and Parker and I walk down to the beach. No one else is here, and it is beautiful. We spot the small restaurant—Wilson La Boca Restaurant—across the river. Mom ate here the last time she was here. It doesn’t look like a restaurant from where we are standing…more like a shack. That said, I can see it being a fun experience and hear it has good seafood. 

We paddle back up the river, and it is quite beautiful and peaceful. Unfortunately, I don’t have any pictures. I didn’t bring my phone because I don’t have a dry bag and didn’t trust myself not to end up in the river like Luciano. Back at our starting point, we pull the boards out of the water and make our way back to Swell. Somehow, we make it back in time for yoga, which proceeds similar to our previous sessions. I learn that our yoga instructor, Ella, is from Norway.

With the pace slowing during yoga, the exhaustion from the day starts to hit, and I sneak away for a quick nap before dinner.

This is our last dinner all together. The Swell cooks make rice, beans, and fish, and everyone is here, including the surf instructors. After dinner, we play Cards Against Humanity, which is a great last night game. Niki and I (on a team) win in a tie breaker against Parker. We share plenty more laughs as our time together comes to an end. The week went fast, but we sure did a lot. 

Our journey home begins tomorrow. It really has been an incredible week. Thank you Emily and Jason for the nudge to go. Thank you Mom for coming with me on two weeks notice. Thank you T for all the fabulous recommendations. And thank you everyone at Swell for making it so fun.